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The flipside of the blocker coin is a thing called bunching. At a 10 max table that folds to the button you can eliminate all the cards the previous players folded (hands not good enough to play). This makes the chances that the button has a hand that they can open slightly better at a six handed table, they are opening a 40BB button range either way. The odds of you calling (the same range) are slightly higher when more cards have been folded beforehand, also. After that, it all plays the same. With a 1BB ante, your pot odds are actually better, so you can defend more than the charts below, which are both calculated without an ante in the pot.
No need to bet larger on the Turn. Your bet sizes are determined by your nut hands in the range compared to your bluffs. You (optimally) offer your opponent pot odds at a ratio of value:bluffs. If you bet half pot, you are offering 3:1 odds, you should have one bluff for every 3 value hands against a good opponent. Of course, no one plays optimally, so you need to adjust from this baseline. If your opponent is a calling station, I would use a 2e bet, this is the smoothest way to get it all in. If they like to attack weakness, check-raise. If they are a nit and see monsters under every bed, bet a smaller size that you think they will call. 10% is better value than checking.
The question I have for you- what are your bluffs when you over bet the river, or are you one of those guys that “always has it on the river?” You mentioned polarizing, but you didn’t mention with what. If you have no bluffs here, then you are way over valuing the skill of your opponent who called you.